Saturday, February 19, 2011
I wanted to do number 48 on this Lutterloh sheet because I loved the princess lines and had not made a top with princess seaming probably since I was a teenager, except for the Lutterloh shirt I made a few years ago from the much heavier cotton Lycra poplin, and that was altogether different. Since I had drafted this pattern last year, and then cut it last Fall, I was happy it got a review on PatternReview.com sometime in the same few months. As with all Lutterloh patterns, you use your bust and hip measurement to then enlarge the small pattern from the pattern sheet, using a special measuring tape. After the first few times, you can do this pretty quickly. You use the bust measurement for all above the waist and the hip for the waist and below, unless you have a small waist, and then some people prefer to use the bust measure there as well. If this works - do it, there is nothing set in cement. I use my hip measurement and then have to make the waist larger anyway. I make shoulders smaller and waist larger. At any rate, then my cut out fabric sat there and waited for me to get to it after I had made a cotton broadcloth muslin. It has taken me awhile - sewing sporadically - but it is finished. Interestingly, others have found that this pattern runs large, and I am no exception. My top is too large, yet I wore it yesterday and people loved it, so that means a lot. I will make the pattern smaller, which will pull the seaming somewhat farther into the bodice front because it could use that and at the same time make it all over somewhat smaller. It is drafted for knit fabric, and I used a very light cotton knit print with Lycra in it. The fabric was difficult to say the least, as far as sewing on it. I used several feet trying to get one that worked best, and ended up with the regular Viking foot B. Top stitching around the collar I used the left-edge-stitching foot. I didn't want the neckline of this pattern, nor did I want the low loose cowl collar on the on the other view because I wanted it to be a transitional wear garment, and I wanted to wear it now in the winter as well as the Summer, so I drafted a loose T-neck collar. Finding a book with directions for sewing a T-neck was interesting, as none of my books really address this in a knit. Online there is a wonderful video by Sarah Veblen at the threads site which is just what I wanted. I am thinking of getting rid of almost all my sewing books because they haven't been of much use with modern fabrics, whereas the web is full of videos now! So, using that video I sewed on that collar. I used a Burda pattern for a turtleneck to use as a guide to cutting and assembling the collar, and it all worked out very well. I see I could have made it even smaller, and then it would be a regular T-neck. I am happy with the outcome, and the topstitching around the collar. For a free brochure and instructions, see the Lutterloh New Zealand site and sign up for the Newsletter. Also at the New Zealand site Sonja gives sewing classes online and is available certain periods of time each year to answer your email questions. Wonderful classes, and Sonja and Andre are terrific about customer service and wanting you to become a really good Lutterloh sewer!
Sunday, February 13, 2011
This first photo shows another thing I love on the 8050. The markings on the machine bed. All the way out on the side. Very handy. Now a shank that fits. Janome seems to have the two types of shanks because the bars they fit on have different shapes. The ones with the beveled out bar that thins toward the shank (as in the Kenmore 19110, the Janome 2010, the Janome 115110) and the full bar without the narrow part as in the 8050 and some others that I don't have a clue at this point. BUT this is the shank that fits the 8050 in case anyone wants to switch to a metal snap on foot shank as in the picture. The shank with the red button fits the J2010, the Kenmore 19110, etc. interesting. O.K...pretty picky posting here, but maybe someone will want to know. It isn't easy to get this information from the website, and even in the listings of these shanks for sale, they repeat the same machines, so how is one to tell without trying them. The Janome website is vague about this sort of thing. And now the low blow of only allowing partial downloads of manuals from the Janome site. Too bad. The Janome DC1050 looks to be the same machine as the 8050, with different cosmetics, and the stitch panel arranged horizontally rather than vertically - same stitch patterns as the 8050. Same other features as well. Downloading the manual would be very handy.
Monday, February 7, 2011
Last post I said that it had the same stitches as the 115110/19110. However, that's not the case. I began to compare the stitch patterns and just gave up - there are some the same and rather more than a few that are not the same. After making a detailed comparison, there are 15 stitches on the 8050 that aren't on the 115110 or it's fellow machines. So that is a cumulative Janome stitch count at my house of 65 available stitches! :) One example is one has the heart satin stitch and one doesn't and one has different blanket type stitches than the other, and the 8050 has a meandering stitch and the 115110 doesn't. Now the stitch patterns on the 115110/19110 is the same as the Janomes: 2008,2010 and 2011. So my two machines complement each other well. I sewed on a pair of fleece slippers this past weekend, and the 8050 toughed her way right through. I am used to the Start/Stop button now and LOVE it. :) Oddly, the shank for the 19110/115110 doesn't align the feet properly on the 8050, although they both use the same feet - the newer synthetic shank is a differently machined shank. So I contacted SVC and they are sending me one that is supposed to fit and align the feet properly. Not that I NEED another shank, but I thought it would be good as a spare part - you just never know! I will report back on the fit. Since I have the pictures here, you can see that the display areas are not the same, and the buttons to use the display differ as well. Both machines are nice, and I think I would love to have one of just about every model if that were possible! :)