Cabela's Top redo and Project Runway...

This past weekend's project was creating a cardigan from a Cabela's pullover. My pullover is in cream, but the same as this berry colored one. I cut it straight up the front, removing the small zipper and sewing in a separating zipper from Joann's Fabric. Turned out fine. I sewed the zipper in by laying it down face down on the right side of the top, then sewing it up with the narrow zipper foot on the Viking 770. Then I did the same on the other side of the zipper - a bit more tricky. Thus the edges were finished at the same time as the zipper was sewn in. I may do this on my other pullover which is the berry color in the photo.

Small mention of Project Runway related content! Chris March has a blog at the Project Runway website. He is just so right about this season. Moreover this has been the most boring and worst season ever. Hope to see some improvement after reading the Threads article.

Commencing a few more projects...

I finished a muslin for Petite Plus 104, the Shapely Shirt.It is a very well drafted pattern that fits almost without a problem. The sleeves are wonky though. I did alter the pattern with my usual shoulder alterations, and then I had to do three renditions of a muslin sleeve before I got it right. I have to select fabric and cut this out and sew it now. The thing about this pattern is that it is supposed to be for knits, but looks like a great woven top, so I am making it out of a woven material and even making the armholes a bit larger because of that. The ease in the pattern works for me, and I think it should work. We'll see. I added ease because the pattern illustration on the package looks like it is too small for the model. There is a terrific review of this pattern here. The review is by Debbie Cook, and her blog Stitches and Seams has even more! The only other news is that I am doing a few top secret projects for the holidays, or trying to get them together anyway! More to follow on that effort...OH, and I did acquire a new baby. Here she is, my new Elna 2100.She isn't really little, but she's the bottom line. Vertical bobbin, several nice stitches, and pink! And yes, the 2100 is the newer cosmetics and new number version of the 2110 I bought in Seattle last May. I couldn't resist when I saw this one on Sewing In USA online. Very well made stitches as well. I have purchased several front loading feet for her from Sew Vac Direct since then. She will take the front loading Janome feet. There is nowhere to get Elna feet around here, and since Elna is made by Janome, I purchased Janome. She came with an adjustable zipper foot (which was not listed as an accessory for this machine, only for the 2300 but came anyway!, a blind hem foot and a buttonhole foot for her very nice four-step buttonhole. So far I have a 1/4" foot, an adjustable buttonhole foot (new and sort of cool), a satin stitch foot and a teflon foot and have ordered a walking foot and a darning or quilting foot and an overedge foot. I am going to let her virgin run be on some of the projects for the holidays and I need that walking foot! I could use my Pfaff with IDT, but that machine hasn't got the stitch I need! My goodness, but the multi-machined home has that advantage!

Wool knit top...light and comfy...

Lutterloh 2008-58 is done. Although the graphic says #60, I used the long sleeved version. I am very happy with the results! I had two pieces of fabric. One cotton-Lycra and one wool-Lycra and both very lightweight tee material of nearly the exact same color. Being a bit afraid to cut the wool blend, I thought I was using the cotton blend for this top. As I cut it out though, I began to think I had the wool, and I smelled the fabric. Sure enough there was a clean but wool smell to it! The hand of this fabric is the softest and nicest and smoothest I have ever felt. After assembling the garment I was so glad I had used the wool! I bought the fabric at our late departed and mourned fabric store, and that will probably be the last of this wool-Lycra I see because if I get more I will have to order it online from a nice place like Gorgeous Fabrics, and I won't see it first. The wool blend was easy to sew, and the only thing I will try to do better next time is to make the neckline band even shorter so there is more stretch necessary. I always use the tutorial at Threads to do the neckline. I watch it every single time I do a neckline in a knit top! As to the pattern, I drafted the Lutterloh, then shortened the pattern and used my shoulder template as I always do, and cut it down to my shoulder measurements, which wasn't a whole lot of adjustment. I love my Lutterloh patterns! I can wear this top over a turtleneck for Winter or I can wear it alone in warmer weather. It does provide a lightweight layer of warmth. I will be sewing this pattern again, and may make it a bit smaller for wearing alone.

Lutterloh Silk Blouse part Three...The finale!

Finally this blouse is all done, and worn happily. It will probably not be worn so casually all the time, but it can go from casual to more formal with ease. Finishing it was a matter of buttons, cuffs and hem. Making the buttonhole on the collar was something I had wanted to do before I added the collar to the blouse,
but as it turns out the collar really needs to be in place first so you can get a fitting and mark where you want it. The cuffs were fun and rather work intensive, but they turned out nicely. I have a few ideas of how I can do them differently next time I make this sort of cuff. I used three layers of the silk for the collar and also for the cuffs as self interfacing.Working on silk was an experience I had not had in decades, and it was tricky but not as much as I thought it might be because it wasn't a slippery silk, but a crepe. As I wrote in the previous post, the Teflon Foot made a huge difference in the feed of the fabric, and made the sewing almost as easy as sewing cotton. For the most part, when sewing on silk you must do it right the first time because pulling out stitches can leave tell tale signs in the fabric. Ironing is not to be steam either. And I find that creases once ironed in remain in so caution in ironing is key as well. There is quite a lot of hand sewing that you should do with silk. I did the inner collar, the inner cuffs, and fastening the front facings to the shoulders and front seam by hand, and made sure the facings were anchored but not sewn tightly. I did machine hemming by turning up about 1/4" and sewing that and then turning up about 5/8" and sewing that. The blouse will be worn tucked in with a blousy style.

Lutterloh blouse part deux...

More on Lutterloh 2005-16. Silk crepe is a tricky fabric. Every now and then it wants to catch the needle and pull a fiber. However, after consulting my Betzina Fabric book and then my other various books, I chose to use the Viking teflon foot. It is hard to believe what a difference the teflon foot makes. No pulls, holds that silk and sews like a charm. I love my extra Husqvarna Viking feet. I know I have referenced them now several times in these writings, and they are all well worth the price. The Teflon foot came with my machine, but I would buy it in a minute if I had to. Now I am working on the plackets for the sleeves, then to apply the cuffs, buttons and finally the hem, and this will be a lovely wearable garment. Pictures of that last step will be forthcoming when all is done.

Cindy Taylor Oates

Updated to add that I did finally finish those pants! I love them. One pair is sage green and one is navy, both weaver's cloth. I am glad the ladies on PR mentioned weaver's cloth because I had been missing kettle cloth, a fabric I loved in the 1970s.

Cindy Taylor Oates - I have a couple of her books, and I keep meaning to make a dress, an apron, and a skirt. Today I Googled and saw her blog. Very pretty and very inspiring! Now, to get all my present projects done and move on to a few more. I think a whole day of cutting out would be the thing to do again in a few weeks. Then the back will recuperate while I sit and sew! Almost done with the sage green Lutterloh pants - they will be plenty roomy. Working on the Lutterloh blouse for Kate, then to sew the Lutterloh top I have had cut out seemingly for years, but it's only months!

Lutterloh Blouse

Daughter has picked this NOT beginner pattern for her first shirt project, and we have a lovely print silk crepe for it. THINK BIG! Well, so far so good, layout and cutting went well, although I must say Sandra Betzina's fabric book wasn't much help because she doesn't describe the FEEL of various silks she lists, so we weren't sure about our silk crepe. On to sewing - darts went well, as did the shoulder seams. As with any Lutterloh, no instructions, so I had to figure out the facing for the front opening, that's done. Now I am working on the collar. Here is the lucky break. This very pattern is the one used in the Collar Class I am taking from Lutterloh NZ for the standing collar. This is a great help. I am in the midst of making the collar. Kate sewed the other things, and I am doing the collar. This is a good opportunity for her to learn garment construction sequence. I particularly love the sleeve style - there are two tucks in the top of each sleeve and they are so pretty when done - I did them in the muslin. There will be follow up on this project!

Kwik Sew skirt done!

The Kwik Sew skirt 2954 is done. My daughter's first garment and she did a terrific job. The natural linen was such a joy to sew on, though a bit slippery. Thank goodness for the Viking Sewing machine feet! Several edge stitching feet came into play. We used the regular edge stitching foot and the newer plastic wide guide foot with the red markings as well. That foot allows for some nice wide stitching with a guide. And you can use several lines for several lines of stitching. The ties went on very oddly though. They go on and then you must pick out some of the seam and cut a chuck out of the tie on the inside! I think I can manage a better way to attach those when she sews the next skirt. Already there are two lengths of fabric waiting!
I did purchase the plus version of the skirt only to find out that is is NOT the plus version. It is plus, and it is A version, but the pattern differs in a couple ways. 1. The Plus version has a waistband, not a faced waist. AND it is cut differently with a difference in pattern pieces as well. I may or may not make it up, but I might get to it some day. In the meantime, we are drafting Lutterloh patterns for a blouse for my daughter to sew, and a couple of pair of pants for me(yes, the ones I keep talking about). AND, I have signed up for Lutterloh NZ's classes on Collars and Zips, so I have to get busy with that. The plan is to make muslins of necklines with collars and learn a couple ZIP inserts I haven't bothered to learn over the years. It's a good challenge. In fact in the blouse pattern(2005 #16)we've selected, there is a band collar and a cuff setup on the sleeve that will require me to review cuff making. And the blouse is going to be silk. Quite a selection for a second project...silk, cuffs, facings, band collar and a button or three along with the holes for them.

Sewing lessons and Planning...

Planning, that's what I've been up to! My daughter wants to learn to sew garments, and she has picked KWIK SEW 2954, the wrap skirt. A nice neutral toned linen is the fabric she chose, and we've begun the process. I'm not such a good teacher, but I am trying to teach a combination of the way the books say to do things, and the way I do things. It's easier to learn it the "proper" way, and then go out on a limb later. For the seam finishing, I am serging that for her. Serger learning comes later on after the sewing machine gets mastered.Meanwhile, I do have the Lutterloh top from Supplement 271, #60 of 2008, ready to go - all cut out and sitting there waiting for me. :) Last week I went out to the art supply store and got a piece of 1/2" foam core about 48x60" to use for drafting Lutterloh's. My cardboard Superboard is fine, but I think the pins will better stick into the foam core. It isn't so easy to find the 1/2" (they had only the one type) but I think it will be worth the $18.00 investment. It is amazing the materials at the art supply store though. They had several types of the thinner foam core, and those may have done the trick as well, but I wanted to make sure I had a good pinning surface. The XL pants are in the works before the top, and all I have to do is wash the fabric, get it laid out and cut out, and then sew it! Yes, that's ALL...

Finished skirt and lazy Summer me...

Finally - a finished skirt. Fabulous rayon fabric from Threadneedles and Lutterloh 2005-14, as previously pictures here. All I had left was the hem after several weeks of non-finishing, so I whipped that up the other night, and here we are. It is a very comfortable skirt and has a nice flare down from the hip which provides a better fit in the waist and hip, rather than the sort of pattern which is really one large rectangle. I will make another of these. Meanwhile there are two shirts waiting in the fabric for release, a couple of pairs of pants and a skirt in progress that my daughter is making. Lots of plans, although Summer has come, and that makes me a bit lazy! Somehow I just want to sit on the deck and read. ;) On the pants front, there there is really good news! The pattern drafted to my measurements from the XL Lutterloh pattern fits. I did a muslin, and the thing is fine except for a bit of length in the CR seam. That is such good news! Sonja at Lutterloh NZ drafted this for me and was kind enough to send it to me snail-mail along with a flyer for the vest with blue ruler attachment to copy and attach. Meanwhile, I bought the XL-XXL set. I will see how a few other things fit, although the tops will be too large. A basic TNT pants pattern in Lutterloh drafting will be such a wonderful thing to have! I have two lengths of Weaver Cloth (thank you PR members for letting me know about this at Joann's) ready to go for these Summer pants!

PR Weekend Montreal 2010...

SO this event is in the planning stages. I merely report it because I am fairly close and just might go. Sounds like such fun! Read all about it here at the blog! Also here on PatternReview.com if you can. Some content is blocked unless you register, so REGISTER! Uh....I mean that in a good way! There will be activities, fabric shopping, and fabric shopping, and maybe a pajama party and - OH - did I mention fabric shopping? So it does really sounds like a lot of fun!

Buying a Sewing Machine...how to shop

Having written a lot about this topic on PR, I thought I might add it to my blog and then update this post as time goes on with even more ideas on getting that machine you really feel comfy with.
First, spend some time looking at the various brand websites. Some are easier to manipulate than others, but at least you get a feel for the brand and a look at the machines exteriors. Some manufacturers, like Brother, Janome, Kenmore, Bernina, Babylock, and Elna provide web access and download of their machine manuals. Kenmore's are on a separate website: managemy home.com. I believe for Bernina it is for older manuals, not current models, and for Elna and the rest it appears to be mostly the current models. Manuals are usually available for purchase (not online usually) from manufacturers for many many years after a machine is no longer current. Viking is one manufacturer that doesn't provide manuals online at all. Pfaff, while they don't seem to provide the manual online, has many pdf format informational things you can download, and is a very responsive and informative site. Singer has a good website as well, and some great presser foot videos, by the way, that help in the use of each type of foot they illustrate, being transferable information to other brands as well. Juki doesn't have a very good website, but the machines have a good reputation after all the great sergers and industrials that company has produced both for their own brand and for others.

PRE-SHOPPING: Get a notebook you can easily carry with you to jot down prices, impressions and all other data you care to remember when shopping. THEN:

1. Pick a reasonable budget - don't be swayed into the TOL machine just because...:) Ask to try machines at any price point you want to try - TOL and bottom line - then compare feeling.

2. Identify what sort of sewing you will start with. Have you need of classes? If so - classes for life sounds great if you have the time and inclination! Buy a machine with a few features you don't know you need yet - like Needle up/down for example! Do you want to embroider with this machine as well? If so look for either a combination sewing/embroidery machine or get one each, stand alone machines.

3. DO you want a large machine or a smaller, more easily carried one (like a Janome Jem)? Some people like to carry a machine to classes or quilting programs, and a smaller more portable machine is handy for this, as well as for small spaces. As one who owned a Jem Gold and a Jem Gold II, I can vouch for these machines as a main machine as well for people with light sewing needs, or for quilting except maybe very large quilts. They are sturdy machines. Other manufacturers as well make smaller machines.

4. SHOP DEALERS! Some people buy the machine sold by the dealer who is most proactive and friendly! Not a bad approach.

5. Try machines out at different dealers, and see how you "feel" about sewing on various brands and models. Do go to the Bernina, Pfaff, Viking, Janome, Babylock, Brother, and or Juki dealers nears you, and whatever else you see, and then look at machines at a Sears store near you. So many options are available, but at Sears, and other large merchandisers you will get very little support. Sears, however, does provide a warranty and service on their machines, whereas WALMART, KMART, COSTCO etc. won't do that beyond the usual 30 days or whatever to return an item. While you are trying machines, note what bobbin system they have (vertical or drop in), what the maximum width of stitching is, if you can chance needle position manually if you want to, where the needle is in relation to you because some machines have the needle up front and the accessories in the back (Viking) which I personally like, and others have the needle set farther to the back and the accessory thingie in front. A removable part to convert the machine to free arm is pretty much standard now, but look to make sure this feature is there is you want it because some of the higher end fast quilting machines are flatbeds. Just see how these features play out for you, and what you seem to prefer! The beauty of it is that there are various ways of making machines and various people to like each way!

6. Try some serviced used machines at dealers who seem to stand behind what they sell. I bought a great mechanical New Home some years ago that was from the early 80s. I bought it in 2006 and it is a great machine still working really well, and solid! A friend has it now and loves it.

NOTE: Someone asked about Elna and Janome and if they are really different. I can say this about the Elna line vs. Janome or Kenmore - they are all made by Janome, but to different specs in some cases. The manuals are easier to read and more slickly produced, and the bottom line machines have a few nice features not found on the bottom line Janomes as a rule, like presser foot pressure on the outside of the machine easily dialed, and a place for a circular stitching attachment, and a nicer accessories case, as well as the nicer manual in one language (so far - manuals are getting sketchier in general it seems to me). BUT, the needle assemblies and machine innards seem to be identical to Janome and Kenmore machines I have seen from $100 to $1000 in price over several models. I could be wrong, there could be something inside that also differentiates that I can't see or wouldn't recognize!

If you are lucky enough to have several dealers in your area, have fun and take your time. If you can use a machine for some classes before you buy, to see how you like sewing, then that's a great idea too! And remember that a really solid well made machine that you like will be better even with fewer features at a higher cost than a machine with more glitz and features but less expensive and not as solidly made, so be careful and really look at the machines, and try not to fall ill with the very common "SMAD" - Sewing Machine Acquisition Disease. It has afflicted more of us than you know!

When you get back from these rounds of trying machines, go to PatternReview.com and read reviews of the machines that you have seen, and that appeal to you! Then go for it!

Now a Skirt...

Last night I began sewing this skirt, Supp.257, #14, 2005, copyright Modeverlag Lutterloh. This pattern has one piece which is cut twice for the two pieces - FRONT and BACK. So it is so simple. I am serging it so it really goes fast. I am of course making it an elasticized waist, and using the sew-flip-sew method of applying the elastic! My fabric is nothing like the pink in the photo. I am using a rayon print in turquoise and brown. This is one skirt in my Sewing with a Plan project which is becoming an historical document! It is the second item in on the top row of my plan. Originally I planned on using the simple skirt pattern in the KwikSew Easy Sewing book, but decided to use one of my Lutterlohs instead. So now the side seams are sewn and the waist and hem will be done tonight. I am going to attempt a lettuce edge on the serger if I think the fabric will give enough. That would be a first for me. I so enjoyed learning about Serger Basics on PatternReview, and last night I reviewed my lessons and my samples so I am sort of geared us, as it were, to try! Note that the class is now renamed and taught by Shannon Gifford. I am thinking of retaking it! This garment and the summer nightie I made are going to Seattle with me soon. Call them part of my very embryonic travel wardrobe.

Lutterloh and Amy Butler...

Photo Copyright Modeverlag Lutterloh 2003. I finished The nightwear item from my Lutterloh pattern 2003, Supplement #251, top #237. I should add that I added plenty of ease, as I do like comfy nightwear. I got the pattern altered with my shoulder muslin, all cut out and this weekend I finished sewing the nightwear. I widened the sides and made seams rather than ties. I lengthened the garment as well. I used the longer sleeve, as I want this to work both Summer and transitionally. The Fabric is an Amy Butler print, new this year, and just lovely to look at and to work with. I love cotton nightwear, and this fabric was perfect! there are several patterns which use these colors and all are fabulous. I got this at Threadneedle Fabrics, my local fabric store. I wanted to have a nicely finished neckline, so I drafted front and back facings. The serger is an immense help in finishing seams and I used it for the side and sleeve seaming as well. It does speed things up a lot, and even more - it is fun! As to cutting it out, I had so little material left after the pieces were cut out that I had to piece each facing piece. Not even the smallest bit of space left on the fold to cut facings. But I had enough. PHEW! I drafted this pattern large because I made an error in measurements, but after I used my shoulder template to alter it, that didn't matter, and I do have a lot of ease. Note added the next day...you know, this picture doesn't do the garment any favors, and it really does look better...perhaps I may replace it one of these days...or not. The neckline is very niftily done, if I do say so. :)

Patterns drafted...

I got all four of the previously mentioned Lutterloh patterns drafted last weekend, and one skirt cut out. I used my shoulder template from my PR Muslin Class to alter the bodice and armholes. The skirt fabric is the rayon brown/turquoise/white print for the SWAP skirt. As slowly as I am moving on these projects, I hope to get another top cut out this coming weekend, or maybe two if I get to it. I want to definitely cut out the cross over top. Meanwhile I did another grocery bag! Now all I have to do is remember to take the bags to the store when we shop. The grocery bag, and two more ready to go, are being sewn on the Janome, and so far my observation is that this is the quietest machine in the world! It is quieter even than the Kenmore 19233 (made by Janome) I had. I could sew all night and no one would be disturbed. The Viking of course is not really noisy, but it has that high pitched Viking growl-whine sound that I personally love, but may be perceived by others as more noisy. So for night sewing you can't beat this Janome.

SWAP lives on 2009...

Almost a year ago I wrote a post about the SWAP I planned for Summer 2008. Well, I decided to finish that for Summer 2009! Luckily I have finished several pieces, and luckily I have the fabric for the rest! I also decided to update a few of the patterns, and draft a few Lutterlohs in their place. The skirt or maybe two that I have left, I will make a sort of A-line, and one of the tops I have left will be a criss-cross. I actually made two of the turquoise tops, so I am ahead of that game! The jacket I haven't decided on yet, and I also want to make a vest. I have some lovely dark green cord with paisleys on it that would make a nice vest and since it was a large remnant at my local fabric store, there is just enough for a vest. It is pretty muted in tones, so not a screaming paisley at all! I photocopied four Lutterloh patterns over the weekend, and put them in individual pattern envelopes. After all that arranging I am ready to draft. The skirt out of the print rayon, but I have two pieces of print rayon, both lovely. Maybe I will do one from this pattern and then chose another, or just do both from it. I don't have plans or fabric for the PJ pants, but they look comfy and I just might give them a go with light weight flannel if i can find some! I have a length of light green Bemberg lining fabric I thought I would make a PJ top from of that pattern. And a nice piece of pink silk charmeuse I could use as well. [All Lutterloh Pattern photos copyright Modeverlag Lutterloh]

New Baby...Janome 115110...

Meet Jannie, my new refurbished Janome 115110. Bought it from Sew Vac Direct in Texas. Checks out very nicely. This Janome machine is the model sold at Sears as the 19110. The Kenmore name is removed, and the manual is an amalgam (I think) of the HT2008 machine's manual, and the 19110 Kenmore manual. This machine is identical under the paint to the Janome Heart Truth 2008 machine and identical under the body casing to the Janome DC3050 and the Janome Harmony 8080. It is so simple to choose a stitch, and the computerized machine sets the width and length for you. You can override this easily enough with the width and length settings though. Stitch choice, width and length are set by the buttons up top of the panel of the front. The one critique I have is that to get to a high numbered stitch you have to run through all the other stitches which makes the machines needle bar move around a lot as it sets each stitch on the way as you fly though the choices on your way to the one you want. No big deal though. I love the plain white pretty looks. I did a trial run of several stitches, and you can see the results in the picture. I am not doing a full review at this point. In 6 months, after a project or two or three, a full review will be forthcoming on PatternReview.

Taste of the Southwest...

Finally, the Mexican food themed place mats are done! After checking out a couple of my machines binder feet, I opted for the old-fashioned method of applying the bias tape. Sew one fold, turn item and sew. Went faster and looks better. Wrestling with the binder feet I am not familiar with seemed silly. I guess I will capitulate to doing things the way I know how!I used the Viking to sew the bias tape on. I love the edge stitching foot and used that.The PR stash contest is almost over and my paltry 2 yards will stand unless I finish these placemats and hot pads before next Saturday night at midnight! These are my South Western and Mexican Food placemats. I have quilted the three hot pads and three of the four placemats. After the free form quilting comes the binding. I didn't know that the quilting was going to make my right hand sore. I guess it is the holding it steady and guiding the fabric motion, but it did make my hand hurt, so I will resume the last placemat tomorrow! Usually I have been too lazy to even put on the darning foot, but guess what? The darning foot works better and of course the feed dogs are down. The Pfaff is behaving like the Queen she is, and we've had some sewing fun today! Here's the other side of the mat's fabric. Both are Hoffman fabrics. I should possibly look for some pasta fabric and do Italian food too. I already have the Chinese food ones, so that makes a nice set of table eye candy for all the ethnic food we love!

Lutterloh pants 2003-#250-01...

Are done! Due to the abundant sunshine today, which I am not abjecting to, the photos don't show the lines of these pants too much, but you can see they are basic black pants, straight with some ease in the leg. They are comfy because they are a rayon-poly blend as far as I can tell. I have had this fabric in my stash since 1997 when I took it home from my Mom's stash after she passed away.I have waited for a good pattern to sew it up. The back view is what made me happy. These fit better than the last few pair of pants I made, and I may be looking at my TNT pants pattern. A bit more ease in the hips and I am good to go with this one. I might try a bit more width in the leg next time as well. I whipped these up yesterday, after having them cut out a couple weeks. I am pretty happy that this time I got the length right. I tend to make the hems too short, probably a carry-over from a past era, since I have lived in a few of those. I don't like walking on my pants. See this pattern and more on the Lutterloh site. This one is from 2003, supplement #250, pattern 1. The shirt I just made was pattern 2. My future Lutterloh plans include tees for summer, and finding a skirt pattern I like. I have some fabric for both those purposes in my small stash.

I think the next thing I am going to sew will be Southwestern themed placemats, and those don't need fitting! A nice break!